On July 5, while many people relax after Independence Day, others spend their time desperately searching for their lost pets. These could be dogs who, frightened by the fireworks displays on July 4th, escaped the yard. It might even be indoor-outdoor cats who usually come inside when called but are nowhere to be found after the neighbor’s late-night firecracker marathon. As such, animal shelters all across the country are busy prepping for July 5, their busiest day of the year.

Jess Wnuk is the Executive Director of Grand Strand Humane Society in Myrtle Beach. She said that although people love their pets, the celebration is lost on them. During a 2023 interview with ABC-affiliate WPDE, Wnuk shared, “People want their dogs out with them at BBQs, family get-togethers.” She continued, “It’s so important that you make sure your pet is secure.” Emphasizing the importance of “hav[ing] proper identification,” Wnuk added that dogs are often “spooked with fireworks, loud noises, extra traffic.”

Why the day after the 4th of July is hard on dogs and shelters

For animal control officers and dog rescuers, it’s hard to enjoy any sort of July 4th celebration knowing what is to come. Upsettingly, animal shelters and rescues across the country spend every year preparing for the onslaught of intakes on the morning of July 5. This is particularly difficult to manage for many shelters that are already overcrowded, short-staffed, and underfunded. And that’s before the human toll of processing all of these lost and missing animals is factored in. The heartbreaking truth is even if a dog makes it to the shelter, it may not make it back to their family.

What’s more, some dogs arrive with devastating injuries as a result of the disorientation suffered from fleeing from firecrackers. Digging under chain link fences can also leave a few marks. Even worse, some pets get hit by cars on busy roads. Most are too focused on escaping loud noises to notice oncoming traffic. Making matters worse, there also tends to be a higher number of intoxicated drivers during the 4th of July holiday. Dogs might have to suffer for hours on the roadside awaiting a Good Samaritan who will help.

However, there’s some good news! Here are several preventative measures you can take to make sure your pet doesn’t become a statistic this Independence Day.

How to keep your dog safe on Independence Day and avoid a stressful July 5

1. Leave pets safely at home, inside a cool room, and behind secure doors. Avoid leaving any windows unlatched, especially for dogs who could easily jostle a screen open.
2. Try playing classical or relaxing music on a radio or leaving the television on to drown out the noise outside.
3. Do not leave your pet unsupervised, even in a fenced yard. Frightened dogs, startled by fireworks, are more likely to jump fences to try and escape the noise. If you’re not staying home with your pup, find someone they are comfortable with to stay over while you’re out celebrating.
4. Do not leave your pet tied up outside. Animals scared by fireworks can strangle themselves to try and break free.
5. Most importantly, make sure your pet’s identification tags and microchip information are up-to-date with your current contact information.

The post The Day After July 4th Is the Busiest Day of the Year for US Animal Shelters appeared first on DogTime.

Summer days are upon us, and one of the most fun ways to take advantage of the warmer weather with your dog is to visit the best dog-friendly beaches. Here are ten safety tips that will help make your beach visit with your dog fun and accident-free.

Sun, surf, and safety tips for dogs at the beach

Spending time at the beach with your dog is one of the great pleasures of the warmer months. While these sun-soaked days can be the highlight of the year, they also present potential hazards that require careful planning and vigilance. Even if your dog is friendly, a strong swimmer, and obedient to your commands, unexpected situations can arise rapidly. Maintaining close supervision of your pet at all times on the beach is crucial. Your dog’s safety should be the top priority.

Socialization is key

If you ever plan on being in off-leash situations with your dog while you’re in public, you must ensure your pup is well-behaved with other people and animals. Even among friendly dogs, misunderstandings can happen. Play can get too aggressive, or there can be fights over toys or treats.

If your dog still needs proper socialization training or isn’t consistent with recall commands, you must keep them on a leash in public. This is true even if it’s where dogs are allowed to be off-leash. We generally recommend you always keep your dog leashed. Thankfully, you have the option of buying an extra-long lead to allow them more space to roam.

Finding the right dog-friendly beaches

Before you plan your trip, you’ll want to research the top dog-friendly beaches. Start with a quick internet search for “dog-friendly beaches near me.” After reading reviews and checking out beach ratings, you should visit the beach in person without your dog first. Make sure it is reasonably clean and assess any potential risks.

If crowds make your dog nervous, pick a less crowded beach and visit when it’s less busy. Find out if the beach is a good fit for your pup before you show up with them. When you do arrive with your pup, always check the beach safety flags to indicate potentially hazardous conditions.

Even good swimmers should have dog life jackets

Dog life jackets are so important, even for dogs who are great swimmers. Undercurrents can be unpredictable. What’s more, if your dog gets pulled away from shore, they may not have the strength to swim back. Dogs may also get tired, lost, or confused and need help swimming.

Get a brightly-colored dog life jacket with good reviews so your dog is visible and not at risk of going under the waves.

Keep dogs cool at the beach

Your dog needs to have an area with shade, water, and ways to cool down. Heat stroke and dehydration can occur, even when dogs spend time in cool water. Bring your dog a bowl and fresh water so they have something clean to drink. Have towels you can get wet and place on your dog if they need to cool off quickly. Consider bringing a cooler with some ice packs, just in case. You can also buy dog cooling vests, as well, that are specifically made to reduce UV exposure and reduce your pup’s temperature.

Ensure your pup takes breaks occasionally and drinks plenty of water to hydrate. Prioritize these actions even if your pup seems okay. When dogs are having fun, they don’t necessarily realize how hot and tired they are, and that can be very dangerous. Be especially aware of senior dogs, brachycephalic breeds, or other breeds that can’t tolerate warmer weather, as they can be more susceptible to heat.

Prioritize dog sunscreen

Dogs’ fur protects them from sunburns, but even canines benefit from sunscreen. Dogs who are losing hair, have thin hair, or have lighter-colored coats are more at risk, especially if they spend a significant amount of time outside.

Ask your veterinarian about dog sunscreen to decide which is best for your pup. Do NOT put human sunscreen on your dog, and avoid any sunscreens with zinc oxide, which can be toxic to canines if ingested. Apply sunscreen to areas with thin fur, such as the snout, face, and ears. Follow your vet’s instructions.

Always supervise your pet when on the beach

Even if dogs seem safe and look like they’re having a good time, you must be constantly vigilant, especially if your dog is off-leash. If other dogs are on the beach, it’s respectful to speak with other dog owners and see if they’re comfortable with your pup being off-leash. Your dog should only be off-leash if they are confident in recall commands.

Watch for fights with other dogs, signs of heat stroke, dehydration, and hypothermia, which can happen even in summer if dogs spend too much time in cold water. Additionally, examine their paws for any signs of wounds, as many sharp objects could be on the beach. Until your dog’s collar or harness is connected to their leash again, your eyes should be on them.

Pick suitable toys

Some veterinarians suggest tennis balls can contribute to dogs swallowing sand, which can cause gastrointestinal blockages. Instead of tennis balls, cloth toys, or other items that might collect sand more easily, stick to rubber balls, frisbees, and other toys that don’t collect sand as quickly. Your dog will probably still swallow some sand — who doesn’t at the beach — but it is less likely to be enough to cause problems.

Pack a first-aid kit, leash, and other supplies

First thing first: You need to have a leash. If there is an emergency or incident, you need a way to get your dog under control and move them to safety. Towels are also necessary, as your dog’s fur can trap moisture that turns into steam and overheats their body. Dry your dog once they are out of the water. You should have a first-aid kit for minor injuries and any other supplies you might need for the day, including medication, food, and extra water.

Update tags, microchips, and any other ID

If the worst thing that should happen is that your dog runs off or gets lost, the best way for them to get back home is to have updated identification. Ensure their collar tags are up-to-date, as well as their microchip information and any other identification they might have. Make sure you have a recent photo of them, too. It’s always important to keep this info updated, but it is essential if they will be in an off-leash environment.

Wash up afterward

Untreated bodies of water can be full of harmful bacteria, parasites, chemicals, and toxic substances that can hurt your dog. If you can, try to rinse your dog off quickly after a beach visit and bathe them more thoroughly after you get home.

It’s also important to keep your dog up to date on leptospirosis and giardia vaccinations. While these vaccines are typically not required, they are highly recommended. Don’t let your pup drink from any lake or river water, no matter how tempting it may be. They can also be exposed to the bacteria through cuts around their legs and paws.

You should pay special attention to the ears, paws, and anywhere where there are skin folds, as these are the places parasites and bacteria like to hide the most. Be especially mindful of fresh bodies of water and oceanic occurrences like red tide. This can reduce the chances of your dog getting sick from something they pick up from their fun beach day.

Worry-free fun at dog-friendly beaches

With these safety tips for dogs at the beach in mind, you can enjoy a worry-free adventure with your pup. Don’t forget to pack your camera! You can also find many other dog-friendly activities to keep you busy all summer.

If you’re hitting the road to the coast, check out our guide on how to find the best pet-friendly hotels. Also, don’t forget to buckle up your pup in a quality dog car seat to keep them safe on the way to sunshine and sea air!

The post Dogs at the Beach: Safety Tips for Enjoying Dog-Friendly Beaches appeared first on DogTime.

As humans spread into coyote habitats with their pets more and more, the odds of encounters between dogs and coyotes skyrocket. These encounters can be deadly, especially for small dogs who make for easy prey. Humans are good sources of garbage and food, which can attract coyotes, too.

Late January through early March is mating season for coyotes, and from April to August, coyotes begin to have their puppies. During this time, they hunt more actively to provide for their young. As such, they also become more defensive of their territory.

Attacks may be more likely during that time, but in winter when resources are scarce, coyotes can also grow desperate for food. They sometimes move into human domains, which can cause more incidents with dogs.

It’s important to stay vigilant all year long and protect your dog from a coyote attack or any encounter with a harmful wild animal. Here are eight ways you can reduce the risk of coyote attacks on your dog and protect your pup if you happen to see a coyote.

The best ways to protect your dog from a coyote attack

Being situationally aware is a key trait of proactive pet parents. Be on the lookout for signs coyotes are entering your yard or neighborhood. Note if your dog is acting differently at night or is bothered by certain smells on your property. Your pup could be reacting to the scent of a coyote. Also look for coyote tracks, rope-like scat, discarded prey, or indications your trash and recycling have been rummaged through.

Fence your yard

A fence does not provide complete protection from coyote attacks, as these animals can dig or climb if they need to, but it can reduce the risk of a coyote encounter. If you have a yard, make sure it has a durable fence that can reasonably block the view of your dog from the outside.

A solid, high fence can provide a necessary barrier and prevent many — though not all — attacks. However, installing a fence that is coyote-proof can be prohibitively expensive for many. If you are unable to build an 8-foot-tall fence, a shorter fence with coyote rollers may do the trick. These aluminum tubes spin and reduce the coyote’s traction when they touch them, thereby humanely deterring the animal from entering your property. You’ll also need to install either a ground apron or a buried predator apron — which is essentially wire fencing — to a depth of 18 inches underground.

An invisible fence is not a good choice for many reasons, and one of these reasons is that it allows coyotes to enter your property while your dog has no way of escaping. Moreover, chain link fences will allow coyotes to see your dog and further provoke them into attacking.

Always keep an eye on your dog when they’re outside

Even with a fence, it’s important that you supervise your dog’s activity while they’re out in your yard, especially at night when coyotes are more likely to be active. As mentioned earlier, a desperate coyote will climb or dig if they need to.

Keeping an eye on your dog when they’re outside will let you be ready to help them at the first sign of any danger. What’s more, a coyote will likely be more afraid of you than they are of your dog. That’s especially true if you engage in behaviors that make you appear more threatening to coyotes from afar. In particular, this includes looking larger and making loud, authoritative noises while waving your arms.

Get an outdoor light

Coyotes tend to steer clear of bright lights. Get a motion detector light for your yard, or have a light that you can turn on while your dog is out. Coyotes are opportunistic, nocturnal predators, so the key is preventing them from having an easy opportunity to attack your pet.

Having a flashlight handy will also be helpful, as you can use it to scare off any coyotes that approach. This is especially necessary for nighttime walks. Don’t leave home without one. Even a small keychain light is better than nothing. Most cell phones also have bright flashlights, but be sure your device is charged up before leaving home.

Don’t leave out food or garbage

Your dog may prefer to eat outside, but it’s not a good idea to leave out food or empty bowls that smell like food. Additionally, all garbage bins should be properly sealed so as not to attract wildlife. If you do not store your barbecue grill in a shed or enclosed area, be sure to properly burn off any remaining food particles and scents after you use it. Coyotes will scavenge when they’re hungry, and human garbage cans are excellent sources of food.

You may enjoy having birds on your property and leave a bird feeder out, but just be aware that coyotes do hunt birds, and this may increase your risk of a coyote encounter.

If you have raised beds or a vegetable garden, be sure the area around it is securely fenced. Additionally, if you have fruit trees or bushes in your yard, don’t delay gathering and composting or discarding fallen fruit.

Avoid places where coyotes can hide

Coyotes tend to hide in underbrush and bushes, so if you have these on your property, make sure they’re maintained and don’t provide coyotes with a place to lie in wait. Seal areas under your porch, deck, or sheds where coyotes may hide. Be sure to utilize underground wire to prevent them from digging under any fencing or woodwork.

If you’re out walking your dog, stick to cleared trails and paths, and don’t wander. Be mindful of open storm drains and unscreened culverts where coyotes could be lurking in your neighborhood. Even if you don’t encounter a hungry coyote, you may accidentally enter their territory and be perceived as a threat.

Always keep your dog on leash during walks

No matter how well-behaved your dog is, you have to be able to keep them under control if there’s an emergency. Irrefutably, a coyote encounter can quickly become an emergency.

You can’t know how your dog will react to a confrontation, and you need to have a way to restrain them and pull them to safety. Always leash your dog on walks. However, don’t rely on a retractable leash, as these can easily break and won’t allow you to maintain the control you need to reel in your dog quickly. Use a sturdy leash that’s short enough to keep your dog reasonably close to you. Ideally, choose a leash that is less than six feet in length. Even better, consider using a supportive harness for longer walks or potty breaks where your dog could encounter a wild animal.

Be calm, be big, be loud

If you do encounter a coyote, try everything you can to intimidate them. Stay calm, make yourself as big as possible, and yell. Coyotes usually will not attack if you’re perceived as being a serious threat.

Back away slowly and pick up your dog if you’re able to. Use your flashlight if you can to scare the coyote away.

You’ll want to leave their territory as soon as possible, especially if their young are nearby. Most importantly, do not run, as this can provoke the coyote to attack.

Report sightings in your area

Reporting coyote sightings can help you and your neighbors stay alert and cautious. In addition, it will provide animal control with information that can help them capture and relocate coyotes that may be a danger to humans and pets. Be responsible and encourage others in your community to do so, as well.

Other ways to protect your dog from coyotes

In addition to the easy ways listed to ensure your pet’s safety, there are a few other tips and lifestyle changes to employ to protect your dog from a coyote. Some of these are a bit more involved or cost more money to implement. However, if you have the time and treasure to do so, you could save yourself any future heartache and potentially prevent some expensive emergency vet bills. Outside of bringing home a donkey, llama, or livestock guardian dog, these options — used in concert with the eight tips above — could help stave off threats to your pup.

Install sprinklers

Coyotes are not a big fan of water. As such, having a sprinkler system or even a garden hose handy can help you protect your dog in the event of a coyote encounter. Squirting the animal with a spray bottle is also an option, although the sprinkler and hose have the added benefit of increasing your range and keeping you at a safer distance from the predator.

Consider purchasing a coyote vest

The verdict is still out on whether or not a coyote vest is a beneficial purchase. Some dog owners swear by them, believing the puncture-proof fabric could minimize any injury inflicted in a coyote attack. Proponents claim the biggest benefit of the garment is its ability to serve as a potential deterrent.

At the same time, some pups feel emboldened by their larger appearance and may engage in riskier behaviors while donning the apparel. Other opponents of coyote vests are concerned the design may make some dogs more attractive to predators while also decreasing a dog’s agility by restricting their movement. As such, there are worries that the pup may actually have a more difficult time escaping a hostile situation if one occurs.

Buy or make coyote hazing tools

Hazing is a more humane way to address coyote sightings than harming or killing the animal. After all, coyotes are likely only entering suburban or urban areas because their own habitats have been destroyed or encroached upon by development. While they can be a serious threat to dogs and cats, there are methods to scare coyotes away and protect your pet. At the same time, these mostly harmless tricks and deterrents help to reinforce the idea that these predators should fear humans. As coyotes become more habituated, the threat they pose will unfortunately increase.

Outside of yelling and making yourself appear larger, consider carrying noisemakers with you when walking your dog. You can purchase an air horn, whistle, or loud bell. Alternatively, you can make your own by putting pennies or marbles in a jar or old coffee can. If a coyote approaches, shake the device vigorously while also yelling at the animal. Pie pans, pot lids, or even symbols will often also do the trick, but those are a bit less practical if you’re leaving your own yard. Some people choose to carry pepper spray, bear repellent, or either a water gun or spray bottle full of a mixture of water and vinegar, as well.

Physical deterrents such as projectiles can also be used to scare off a coyote. If you decide to go this route, be mindful not to hit the coyote with the objects but just to throw them close enough to scare the animal away. You can use small sticks, tennis balls, or rocks to achieve this aim.

Alter your dog’s feeding and walk schedule

You can’t always help when your dog needs to do their business. However, if you live in an area prone to coyote encounters, consider slightly altering your feeding and potty schedule — especially as the time changes. Knowing it will get dark earlier in the winter months, adjust your pup’s expectations for when they will get dinner and exercise. Since coyotes tend to be more active at night, it’s best to keep evening walks short and in well-lit, busy areas if possible. To put it another way, take your dog on a longer walk before dusk and just stick to a quick potty break for any outdoor trips after dark. This will ensure both your dog’s and your safety.

And, at night, be sure to close any pet doors. You don’t want to wake up to any other wild animals having entered your home either.

Stay safe out there!

The post 8 Ways to Protect Your Dog From Coyote Attacks appeared first on DogTime.

Despite our best intentions, dogs get out when we’re sure they can’t. They run through open doors, dig under fences, hop out car windows, and squeeze through tiny little cat doors that you’d swear couldn’t accommodate a squirrel, much less your bouncy dog. In combination with an ID tag, a microchip is your safest bet for getting your lost dog returned to you safely. These tiny chips are embedded between your dog’s shoulder and, when scanned, can be used to identify your dog and reunite them with their parent. Here’s everything you need to know about microchips for dogs.

How microchips for dogs work

A microchip is about the size of a raw grain of rice and is made of biocompatible material. Using a large syringe, a veterinarian implants it into the skin beneath your dog’s shoulder blades. (Local shelters will often offer microchips for dogs as well, sometimes at a reduced cost.) This placement is permanent. The implantation procedure doesn’t hurt any more than any other injection, and there’s no need for local anesthetic.

Your vet will use a scanner to check that the microchip is working properly. The scanner uses a radio wave set at a certain frequency to turn the microchip on, then sends a signal to the implanted chip. In response, the chip’s number is sent to the scanner. Your contact information is matched to the microchip’s number and sent to a registry. Each microchip has a unique number.

Pros of microchips for dogs

• Shelters, animal control personnel, and veterinarians use them to try to identify stray dogs. The registry will show the parent’s contact information. These registries are usually open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
• Some companies provide a more comprehensive service, such as preauthorizing a financial limit in case your dog is found injured.
• Microchips will last 25 years.

Cons of microchips for dogs

Unfortunately, in the U.S., the system doesn’t quite work smoothly.

• There are two different types of microchips on the market. The first microchip that became popular has been in use here since the 1990s. The other (called ISO) has long been used in Europe and was introduced in the U.S. for companion animals in 2003, although it had already been used here for large animals for some time.
• Both types of chips use different radio frequencies, with the result that no scanner is compatible with all the microchips out there, even though some claim to be universal. If a shelter has a scanner that can’t read your dog’s microchip, the chip is useless in that situation. Some shelters and clinics have multiple scanners, but most can’t afford more than one (they cost several hundred dollars, and shelters are always short of funds). Although some manufacturers state that they have universal scanners, those haven’t worked out as well as hoped.
• There’s more than one registry. This is less helpful than having one big national database.

How to get the most out of a microchip

• Ask your local shelter what brand of microchip they use. Then, ask your veterinarian to use that brand.
• If you move, update the microchip registry with your new contact information. Otherwise, the microchip will be useless if your dog gets lost. (Dogs can easily panic and disappear during the frenzy of moving.) Also, make sure you update them if you get rid of your landline or change your number for whatever
• If you’ve moved to a new area and your new shelter uses a different scanner, call the microchip manufacturer and ask if they will donate one to your shelter.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Microchips for Dogs appeared first on DogTime.

At first glance, it may seem like a small French Bulldog can handle the heat than a heavy-coated Siberian Husky. After all, Frenchies have shorter fur and generally like to take it easier when it comes to exercise than Huskies do. But French Bulldogs, along with other breeds like American Bulldogs, Pekingese, Pugs, and Boston Terriers are brachycephalic dogs, and that means they don’t do well in summer heat.

“Brachycephalic” refers to dogs with short muzzles, and this face shape is a huge disadvantage to dogs in the hotter months since their main mechanism for cooling down is panting.

Here’s how summer heat can become dangerous — even deadly — for brachycephalic dogs.

Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome (BAS)

Brachycephalic dogs are ineffective panters.

Panting is a form of evaporative cooling that helps regulate dogs’ body temperatures in the heat. The shorter, “smushed” faces of brachycephalic dogs are quite cute, but they can create big problems when it comes to airflow.

This causes short-muzzled dogs to snort, gurgle, and sometimes have a difficult time breathing. The bone structure of their faces makes their airways like a tight maze, so much less air reaches the lungs in a breath than it would for a non-brachycephalic dog.

Many short-muzzled dogs will breathe through their mouths, but they’re still not getting as much air as their longer-snouted counterparts.

Soft palates in brachycephalic dogs’ mouths block a majority of the air coming into the trachea, which means your short-snouted dog needs to work even harder just to get a sufficient amount of oxygen in their system.

Imagine trying to breathe while someone is pinching your nose and you have a swollen throat. That’s what it can be like for brachycephalic dogs in the summer.

How to prevent heat stroke and heat exhaustion in brachycephalic dogs

Due to brachycephalic dogs’ inability to pant efficiently, they’re at a substantially higher risk for summer health issues such as heat stroke and heat exhaustion.

They require a lot more TLC in the summer than other dogs to ensure they’re safe and healthy in the midst of the heat.

If you have a brachycephalic dog, be sure to do the following:

Always have cool water available

This isn’t exactly rocket science, but another way for your dog to cool down is with water. Make sure that your short-snouted friend has easy access to cool, clean water 24/7 during the summer.

Take it slow

Your dog still needs exercise during the summer, but try to do so in a slow, breezy fashion. Take shorter, slower walks during the cooler parts of the day, such as early morning or later in the evening after some of the heat of the day has worn down.

Use a harness

Brachycephalic dogs already have the cards stacked against them when it comes to breathing. Don’t add to their obstacles with an airway-restricting collar.

Use a harness to walk your dog at the appropriate times of the day.

Do not leave them outside for long

Even if you have a shady area in your backyard for your dog to rest, do not leave your brachycephalic dog outside, even if it doesn’t seem all that hot to you.

These are not the type of dogs to leave outside in heat, even just for 20 minutes. These dogs can succumb to the heat in that short of a time period.

If you let your dog out in the yard to do their business, bring them back inside as soon as they’re done.

Invest in a cooling pad

Getting a comfy cooling pad for your dog to lay on indoors is an excellent way to help your dog maintain a comfortable and healthy body temperature in the heat.

Watch their weight

Excessive weight can lead to breathing and other health problems in any dog, but it greatly exacerbates a brachycephalic dog’s inability to keep cool and properly breathe.

If you have a short-muzzled dog who has a little too much extra weight, talk to your vet about healthy strategies to help them shed the pounds.

Know the signs of heat stroke

Educate yourself on the signs of heat stroke. If you suspect your dog is suffering from heat exhaustion, cool them down immediately and contact your vet.

Brachycephalic dogs can still enjoy the summer, but they do need to be monitored vigilantly.

The post Why Summer Heat Can Be Deadly For Brachycephalic (Short-Muzzled) Dogs appeared first on DogTime.

Question:

What items should I include in my pet first-aid kit for my dog?

Answer:

Emergencies happen. As a responsible pet parent, you should be prepared for the worst (even while expecting the best). That means a pet first-aid kit. You can DIY it with our list of supplies below or let the geniuses at Amazon do the hard work for you and buy one ready-made.

Either way, there are a few safety precautions to keep in mind. First, it’s important to remember to keep everything in your dog’s kit out of his reach and your children’s reach. Second, be sure to regularly check the expiration dates of medicines and supplies in the kit. Throw out any outdated items. Third, if your dog has a specific medical condition, ask your veterinarian what else to add to the kit. Finally, you might want to keep your supplies in a waterproof box just to be sure it’s extra-protected. Keep a spare kit in your car.

Must-have pet first-aid kit items

These are the pet first-aid kit products no dog parent should be without. You can buy most of the items in the first-aid kit at your local pharmacy or pet store.

• 3% hydrogen peroxide
• Absorbent compresses (or gauze sponges in a variety of sizes)
• Adhesive tape, hypo-allergenic
• Clean cloth
• Cold compress
• Compact thermal blanket
• Diphenhydramine (Benadryl, only use with your vet’s OK)
• Epsom salts (for making saline solutions)
• Glucose paste or corn syrup (if your dog is a diabetic or has low blood sugar)
• Grooming clippers
• Material to make a splint: newspaper, sticks, and pieces of wood
• Muzzle (you can buy one or make your own with a roll of gauze)
• Nail clippers
• Needle-nose pliers
• Non-adherent sterile gauze pads
• Non-latex, powder-free disposable gloves
• Nylon leash
• Over-the-counter triple antibiotic ointment
• Pediatric dose syringe
• Penlight
• Petroleum jelly
• Rectal thermometer (no mercury, no glass)
• Roll bandages (such as 3-inch gauze wrap that stretches and clings)
• Roll gauze (2-inch width)
• Rubbing alcohol
• Small scissors (with a blunt end to prevent cutting skin)
• Small wire cutters
• Sterile eye lubricant
• Sterile saline eyewash
• Styptic powder (to help with bleeding toenails)
• Towel
• Water-based sterile lubricant (like KY Jelly)

This list is a good start. However, perhaps the most important thing for your kit is a list of emergency phone numbers. These should include numbers for your veterinarian, an emergency animal hospital, and the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435). Tape the list to the outside and the inside of the box.

The post What to Put in a Pet First-Aid Kit appeared first on DogTime.

To share food is to share love. Most dogs love to have a treat handed to them, and food that smells like your hand is a big deal. Your dog will also appreciate a variety of flavors and textures. You don’t want to go overboard, however, since treats count in your dog’s total daily caloric intake. Think moderation, or you’ll soon be taking away all treats and putting your dog on a diet. We’re going to help you choose the best dog treats and dog bones for your pup.

Top dog treats

• Go for small aromatic treats if you’re training your dog. You can break them into still smaller pieces for fewer calories and more rewards.
• Biscuits offer a good crunching experience. They also help remove tartar. Best of all, you can break them into pieces, the perfect way to say, “I love you, you are such a good girl.”
• Puppies and senior dogs do best with small, softer treats.
• Read the label. Some treats have a high salt or fat content. Most people don’t realize, for example, that rawhide and pigs’ ears or snouts are high in fat and calories and are frequent contributors to pancreatitis and obesity. Look for hypoallergenic treats if your dog has food allergies.
• Aggressive chewers need something large and tough. For those dogs, there are many treats and bones on the market designed just for them.
• Go with the knotted type. Power chewers who like to masticate rawhides into a soft, disgusting mess will be occupied longer with a knotted rawhide than a flat one.

Dog bone and dog treat safety

• Supervise your dog while they are enjoying a treat. Choking is a possibility, particularly with bones and rawhides. Some veterinarians might say that no one would buy some of these treats if they realized they might spend $1,000 on emergency surgery to remove the $2 treat.
• Never offer cooked bones. Chicken bones and others from the dinner table can splinter and damage the throat or intestines.
• Feed some treats outside. Basted rawhide or pigs’ ears can stain carpeting and make a real mess, especially if your dog has a beard.

The post How to Choose Dog Treats and Dog Bones appeared first on DogTime.

Despite the cliché about fighting like cats and dogs, it’s perfectly possible for the two species to live happily under one roof. However, it’s also perfectly possible for a cat to injure a dog, and for a dog to seriously hurt or even kill a cat. To keep your home a peaceable kingdom, you’ll want to arm yourself with some know-how before you add a new four-legged resident. Here are some pet parenting tips for safely introducing a new dog to your cat.

Picking your new dog

Your best shot at pet togetherness is to get your cat and dog when they’re both young. Kittens and puppies who grow up together are much more likely to get along, and they can even become close buddies.

That said, if you’ve got an adult pet, it’s possible to find a dog who will coexist with your cat. But before you dive into the search and fall in love with a dog who will turn your home into a battle zone, here are some pointers to keep in mind.

If you already have an adult cat, it’s better to get an adult dog than a puppy. That puppy exuberance that you find so charming is annoying and stressful to cats. Look for a grown-up dog with a track record of living peacefully with felines.

Definitely avoid any dog with a high prey drive — the tendency to chase and sometimes kill smaller animals.

Keep in mind that some dogs just aren’t suited to living with cats. If the dog fixates on and stalks cats, squirrels, or smaller dogs, they’ve got a high prey drive. It’s difficult if not impossible to train such a dog to ignore their instincts.

If you’re adopting, tell the shelter or rescue group that you’ve got another animal at home. They should be happy to give your perspective pet a trial run with a shelter dog to see how they react.

Something to keep in mind as you’re thinking about a new pet: many dogs love to chase cats but have no intention of harming them. Still, being chased and cornered by a dog is stressful for cats, so consider your kitty’s peace of mind as well as safety.

Before you bring the new dog home

You can ease the introduction if you do some advanced preparation. Here are some tips:

Make sure the cat can escape if they need to

Cats are more likely to be hurt by dogs than vice versa, so make sure your cat has spots throughout the house — cleared-off countertops and shelves, kitty condos, and so on — to leap out of harm’s way.

Create areas where the cat can get away from the dog

You can block off rooms with baby gates, so long as your dog can’t jump over them, or install cat doors that will let your cat escape outside or into another room.

Show your cat the escape routes

If you already have a cat and are preparing to bring a new dog home, get your kitty acquainted with these escape routes and hiding places in advance. Lure them through the cat door, over a gate, or onto a safety perch with the help of a food treat.

Set up the cat’s belongings where the dog can’t get to them

Move the cat’s food, water, toys, and litter box to an area the dog can’t reach. The idea is to allow the cat to do whatever they need to do without having to go near the dog; that way, they can explore the new pooch and their territory at their own speed.

Do any rearranging of your kitty’s set-up a few weeks before you bring a new dog home, so they have time to get used to it. A new member of the household will be taxing enough for your cat, and having all their things moved at the same time will make it that much harder.

Making the dog-cat introduction

The key is to go as slowly as it takes to keep fear and aggression at a minimum. It’s likely that you’ll see some of both, but if you’re careful, you can stop it before it snowballs.

Keep going over each step until it’s old hat to both animals. If either feels frightened or overly excited, just go back to the previous step and keep practicing until they calm down again. This process may take days, or it may take months.

1. Get them used to each other’s scent

Rub a cloth on each pet and put it in the other’s hang-out spot — on the dog bed, under the cat’s food dish, or on your lap. You may have to refresh the cloth with the animal’s scent several times.

Keep it up until neither one seems overly excited or distressed by the other’s smell. Barking and whining in your dog and a swishing tail in your cat are signs they need more time.

2. Let them investigate each other’s living areas

While the cat is elsewhere in the house, bring the dog in to sniff around their lair, and vice versa. This way they can explore the other’s territory and scent without a direct face-off.

3. Introduce them through a door or baby gate

Bring the dog and cat on opposite sides of a closed door or baby gate, with a person on both sides. Don’t restrain your cat at all; feeling like they can’t get away may frighten them.

Let them sniff under the door or through the gate, but if your cat doesn’t want to get too close, don’t force them. Lavish both with praise, attention, and treats. You want them to think that good things happen when the other pet is around.

Ask the dog to sit, lie down, and perform any other commands they know, praising and rewarding them whenever they focus on you and not the cat.

Keep practicing this step until the cat doesn’t seem frightened and the dog doesn’t seem overly excited.

4. Introduce them with the dog on leash

Again, don’t restrain the cat. They may panic if they feel like they can’t escape this new, scary creature. Keep the dog on leash so you can stop them if they try to give chase.

Again, ask the dog to obey some commands, rewarding them for focusing on you rather than on the cat.

Some cats will hiss and swipe at a curious or obnoxious dog to warn them, “Back off!” That’s actually a better response than running away, which often triggers the dog to take off after the cat.

If the cat flees and your dog starts to chase them, grab the leash, firmly tell your dog “No” or “Leave it,” and ask them to sit. If they return their attention to you, give them a food reward — a really tasty one — for their restraint.

Keeping the peace

Once your dog and cat seem fairly comfortable in each other’s company, you can let them roam around together when you’re home. But to keep the peace, it’s wise to separate them in different areas of the house when you go out until you’re very, very sure they’ll get along.

Some experts recommend making this a permanent policy, to keep all the pets safe.

Many dogs and cats can coexist peacefully, but you’ll keep everyone safe and make life much less stressful if you plan carefully when looking for a new pet, and introduce the newcomer slowly and carefully.

The post Safely Introducing a New Dog to Your Cat appeared first on DogTime.

As a responsible pet parent, ensuring the safety and well-being of your fur baby should always be a top priority. Just like humans, dogs can experience accidents and injuries, making it crucial to have a pet first-aid kit readily available. We’re going to break down everything you need in a first-aid kit for dogs.

Why you need a first-aid kit for your dog

Unexpected accidents can happen anytime, anywhere. Having a first-aid kit can make a significant difference in how well you respond to an emergency. By having one on hand, you can quickly provide immediate care to your dog before seeking professional veterinary assistance.

What to include in your first-aid kit

Essential contact information: Keep a list of phone numbers for your veterinarian, the nearest emergency veterinary clinic, and the Animal Poison Control Center hotline.

• Gauze and bandages: These are indispensable for wrapping wounds and controlling bleeding.
• Antiseptic wipes: Cleaning wounds is crucial to prevent infections.
• Scissors and tweezers: Handy tools for cutting bandages and removing debris from wounds.
• Adhesive tape: To secure bandages and splints in place.
• Styptic powder or pencil: Useful for stopping bleeding from minor cuts or torn nails.
• Muzzle or restraint: In case your dog becomes agitated or aggressive during treatment.
• Saline solution: For flushing out eye injuries or cleaning wounds.
• Instant cold pack: Helps reduce swelling and soothes sprains or strains.
• Tick remover: Essential for safely removing ticks.
• Diphenhydramine: This is an antihistamine with drying and sedative side effects (you probably know it as Benadryl®).
• Water and food supplies: Pack some treats and bottled water to keep your dog calm and nourished during emergencies.

How to use your first-aid kit

Here are a few tips to make your first-aid kit as effective and helpful as possible during an emergency:

Familiarize yourself with the contents: Know how to use each item effectively before an emergency arises.

Keep it easily accessible: Store the kit in a designated area where you can quickly grab it when needed.

Check and replenish regularly: Ensure your kit is up to date, and items with expiration dates are replaced as needed. Pay special attention to items that can dry out, like Band-Aids or medical tape.

Stay calm and composed: Your dog can sense your emotions, so remaining calm will help keep them relaxed during treatment.

Seek veterinary care: While a first-aid kit can address immediate issues, always consult your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment after any significant incident.

Beyond a first-aid kit

Just having a kit with all the stuff in it is not enough. You need a guide to keep with the kit because, if you’re like most people, you may get pretty panicky in an emergency. The first aid instructions are as important as the kit itself, if not more so. To be really prepared, take the American Red Cross’s pet first aid class.

A first-aid kit is an indispensable tool for every dog owner. Being prepared for emergencies can save valuable time and potentially be a lifesaver for your beloved pet. Remember to regularly check and update the contents of your kit, stay informed about pet first-aid techniques, and, most importantly, seek professional veterinary care when necessary. By doing so, you can provide the best possible care for your canine companion and ensure their health and well-being.

The post A Complete Guide to First-Aid Kits for Dogs appeared first on DogTime.

One of a dog parent’s biggest fears will always be losing their pet. Losing a pet is like losing a human loved one, and it’s an experience no one should ever have to go through. Even if you believe you’re the safest pet parent in the world, it’s always smart to make sure you have a checklist to prevent your pooch from getting lost, just in case.

Here are 10 vital tips to ensure you won’t lose your precious pup.

1. Microchip your dog

Thanks to the technology of microchips, many people have been reunited with their lost dogs.

If your dog loses their collar and ends up lost, a vet or shelter can scan for the microchip, which will have their name, your contact information, and your primary vet or shelter information.

The process for getting a microchip implanted is completely painless, and your dog will have no idea it’s there. It’s only about the size of a grain of rice. A vet will inject the microchip under your dog’s skin and it will stay there for their entire life.

It’s also important because if someone else claims your dog, you can legally prove the dog is yours by looking at the microchip.

2. Get a collar with dog ID tags

While it may seem obvious, some people forget how extremely vital it is for your dog to not only have a secure collar but also have an ID tag.

Loose collars can fall off and, over time, become torn and worn down. It’s important that you check your dog’s collar to make sure it’s still in proper shape. Also, you don’t want to choke your dog, so be sure to find an even balance between secure and comfortable.

ID tags make it very easy for someone to identify your dog and get your contact information immediately on sight. You can buy custom tags online or make them at your local pet store for an affordable price.

You can also write your phone number on the collar, itself, as a precaution.

3. Teach ‘come’ and ‘stay’

Two essential commands your dog must know are “come” and “stay.” With these two commands, the probability of your dog getting lost is less likely.

Whether you’re taking your dog for a walk, spending time at the park, or going for a drive, there is a chance your dog could see something they find exciting or interesting and take off.

If your dog knows these commands and recognizes you as their leader, they’ll be more likely to stop. Knowing these commands can not only keep your dog from getting lost, but it could even save your dog’s life. For example, you could end up stopping them from running into a street of cars.

It’s important to teach your dogs these commands starting from when they’re puppies, if possible. Older dogs can still learn the commands, too. However, the earlier training begins, the better.

4. Keep your dog on a leash

If you have a dog, that means you need to own a dog leash. Having a leash is a fundamental part of having a dog. Furthermore, keeping your dog on that leash is one of the best ways to prevent your pup from getting lost.

There are a variety of styles of leashes for different types of dogs and different environments, so make sure you find the right fit for both you and your dog. Ensure the leash you buy is recommended for your dog’s weight.

If you’re going for a walk in the park where other dogs might be present, you should have a shorter leash with more control so you can regulate your dog with more ease if, for example, they try to go after another dog.

5. Secure your yard and home

One of the most common ways a dog gets lost is when they escape their yard. There have been plenty of times when people found dogs wandering their neighborhood and mistaken them for strays when really they accidentally just got out of their own property.

If you let your dog in the yard, make sure you double check the fencing around your property. You want the right height fence depending on the size of your dog so they can’t jump over it.

Even if they can’t jump the fence, your dog still might be able to dig their way out. A good way to prevent this is with rocks or chicken wire lining the bottom of the fence.

Also, to prevent your dog from squeezing through the fence, check for any loose panels or boards that your dog can fit through.

6. Make sure to spay or neuter

Not only is spaying and neutering important to prevent overpopulation and keep more dogs from ending up in shelters, but it’s also key to keeping your pets from wandering off and getting lost.

When male dogs aren’t neutered, they have a higher tendency to seek out females because of natural sexual behavior. This means that an unneutered dog is more likely to wander off from your home and get lost trying to seek out female dogs, leading to a greater risk of getting hit by cars. Neutering your dog takes away this instinct, making your dog calmer and more reliable, preventing further behavioral problems.

Female dogs will also benefit from spaying surgery, as fewer males will attempt to mate with them. Aggressive males can cause a female dog to bolt, so it’s best to remove that temptation.

7. Pay attention

The simple-yet-vital act of paying attention to your dog is the easiest way to prevent your dog from getting lost.

Wherever you take your dog, pay attention to them and their surroundings, especially in unfamiliar locations. Dangers and distractions can lead to accidents, dropped leashes, and dogs running off.

Also, be sure to never leave your dogs tied to bike racks, parking meters, or fences while you go into a store. Your dog could easily slip out of their collar and get lost. They would also be at risk for being stolen.

Your dogs should always be in eyesight of you. Even when your dog is in your own backyard, you should know exactly where they are. You wouldn’t leave your child unsupervised, so why should you leave your dog unsupervised?

8. Be safe in the car

An easy time for dogs to escape is when they’re in the car. Your dog could easily run off when you open the car door. Some dogs could even escape if you open the window too far. Be aware of your dog’s typical behavior and figure out what works best.

If your dog has a tendency to stick their whole body out the window, be sure to keep the window closed far enough so their body can’t fit through.

Similarly, if your dog gets easily excited when you open the door, make sure you leave their leash on. That way you can prevent the problem before it even happens.

Seat belts are also helpful in making sure your dog is safe and secure. There are several dog seat belts on the market, but be sure to check that they have been safety tested. Rely on online reviews before you make a decision about which one to purchase. Your vet can help.

Finally, do not leave your dog alone in the car under any circumstance. Not only could your dog die from heat stroke on a hot day, but someone could actually break into your car just to steal your dog.

9. Keep their documentation easily available

You should have all of your dog’s documents and papers organized in one area with easy access. If your dog were to get lost, you’d quicken the process of finding them by having all your information together.

Proof of ownership such as vet documents, shelter information, photos, vaccination records, and more can make it easier to not only prove your dog is yours but also make it easier for those who might have found your dog, such as shelters or rescue groups.

You should keep handy your local shelter’s address and phone number, along with a recent photo, so you can put up flyers with what your dog looks like at the current moment.

10. Practice indoor safety

It’s perfectly healthy and normal to let your dog go in the yard for outside time, to go potty, and to play. However, when you’re not home, they should be indoors.

It’s important to make sure you keep your dog inside when you’re not home so your dog doesn’t get loose by mistake. Also, if you have small dogs, be extra aware — especially at night — because of predators like coyotes, hawks, and mountain lions.

Lastly, don’t leave dogs outside alone while you’re sleeping. When it’s time for bed, everyone should come inside.

The post 10 Tips To Make Sure You Won’t Lose Your Dog appeared first on DogTime.