During the Independence Day holiday, while we humans enjoy small-town parades, family barbecues, and late-night fireworks displays, thousands of pets all across the United States will be in a panic.

You see, Fido and Fluffy don’t understand that the “rockets red glare” and the “bombs bursting in air” on the 4th of July 4th are just humans’ idea of relatively harmless fun.

On July 4th, we encourage pet parents to remember that holiday fireworks are often at the center of pet injuries. As such, we should take proper measures to keep all dogs and cats safe as Americans celebrate our country’s birthday.

Dogs and fireworks: What could go wrong?

Fireworks can make the Fourth of July the scariest night of the year for dogs. The sudden, deafening sounds — what’s loud to us is ear-piercing to them — and bursts of light in the sky can elicit serious anxiety if not downright terror.

Plus, shelters see the highest number of intakes on July 5th, the day after Independence Day. Dogs can easily get spooked by exploding fireworks and flee into the night.

But it’s not just fear that can present a danger to our pets. Dogs have been known to try and attack fireworks or firecrackers. Some have even tried to eat them, catch them, or play with them. Sometimes, this results in horrible injuries — and even death.

In 2010, a dog tried to fetch a lit firework, and it exploded in his mouth. The resulting wounds on the German Shepherd’s mouth and face were so severe the dog had to be euthanized. Dogs who’ve had run-ins with bottle rockets and mortars have been burned, had damaged limbs, and even lost eyes as a result.

“People toss a firework or firecracker in the air, and the dog jumps up, swallows it, and the firecrackers cause severe damage to the external organs,” Colorado veterinarian Eliza Mazzaferro explains.

Dr. Mazzaferro says fireworks can cause injuries in less direct ways, too. “Pets get anxious and break out of kennels, jump through windows and get lacerations, and when loose, can get hit by cars,” Dr. Mazzaferro says.

Very anxious pets can and sometimes do hurt themselves trying to flee from the unsettling sounds of fireworks. “I have seen them bite through a metal cage and injure their teeth and gums and also jump through plate glass windows,” explains Dr. Mazzaferro. “They try to escape the noise, not knowing that it is outside.”

Shelters and rescues prepare for Independence Day

Many animal shelters and rescue organizations take precautions in the days leading up to 4th of July festivities. They do so knowing full well what can happen when a building full of animals is frantic with terror.

A fireworks show in 2012 near a shelter in the United Kingdom frightened dogs so badly they literally tore out their claws and ripped up their paws. The animals were overcome with terror, scratching at their cages to get free. In the weeks following the display, some dogs were still jumpy, clearly shell-shocked from the ordeal.

Similar scenes may play out in shelters and homes here in the U.S. over the holiday. Staff at many animal shelters take preparation measures like moving all of the animals in their care inside the shelter building. They also play music to drown out the booms and bangs of fireworks as best as they can.

When nearby town fireworks displays begin, some animals in shelters will panic, startled by the loud, unfamiliar noises. At the same time, others will stress out because of their shelter mates’ fright. This can create a dangerous trickle-down effect among the pets in a shelter’s care.

In recent years, some shelters have allowed volunteer members of the public to stay with the animals and provide comfort. Check your local shelter if this is something you’d like to do.

July 4th fireworks safety tips to keep your dog calm this holiday

Pet parents should keep their animals inside, secure, and supervised. Just having a pet parent there while the fireworks are going off can have a calming effect on scared pets.

To avoid sending your dogs trembling with fear, hiding in remote parts of the house, or running away, here are a few tips to keep them feeling safe and secure:

• Keep your dog inside, and if possible, don’t leave them alone in the house.
• Drown out the noise of the fireworks as much as possible. Close your windows and turn on the radio or television.
• Make sure your pet has access to their crate or “safe place” during the show. Casually toss them a treat once in a while.
• Act normal! Talk to your dog in an upbeat voice, and go about your usual activities. Coddling or babying isn’t advised: your dog takes cues from you, so if they sense that you’re confident and unafraid, they’ll be more likely to respond in a similar manner.
• Take a trip to the vet. Your vet can advise you on ways to calm your dog and even recommend medication, supplements, or environmental changes that could help.

Not surprisingly, many fireworks-phobic dogs also exhibit fearful behaviors during other times of the year. Lightening and thunderstorms, for example, can be particularly scary.

If you think your pup is experiencing regular anxiety, then you should get help. Your vet, a reputable trainer, or a professional pet behaviorist can help you both work through these issues.

The post July 4th Safety: Dogs and Fireworks Can Make for a Deadly Combo appeared first on DogTime.

Dogs and humans share much in common, including major diseases. Dogs, just like us, can suffer from allergies, arthritis and joint pain, different types of dementia, all forms of cancer, dental disease, diabetes, gastrointestinal and digestive disorders, and heart, kidney, and liver disease.

“We share all the big diseases with our animal friends,” says Robin Downing, DVM of Windsor Veterinary Clinic and The Downing Center for Animal Pain Management in Windsor, Colorado.

Why dogs and humans share so many major diseases

Dr. Downing believes a lot of these illnesses — for people and dogs — stem from obesity. “In terms of health issues, obesity trumps everything,” she explains. “Obesity is the number-one disease in humans and in our dogs and cats.”

According to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention, over 50 percent of dogs in the United States are overweight or obese. The Centers for Disease Control states that the obesity level for most adults is at or above 40 percent.

“Obesity is a shared disease with too many calories in and not enough out,” says Dr. Downing. “We know that obesity leads to diabetes, cancers of all types, and just think about the stress that being overweight puts on our joints and organs.”

“We have no excuse for our dogs or cats to be obese. Animals don’t have any control over what they eat,” she continues. “The veterinary profession is frustrated by the number of overweight dogs and cats we are seeing in our practices.”

One of the problems is most pet parents don’t recognize when their dogs are overweight. “We don’t know what is a normal weight for our pets,” she says. “Pet food today is extremely palatable, and most of us don’t practice portion control. In the wild, we don’t see overweight animals. They eat what they need, not to excess. Obesity is an animal welfare issue.”

Pain is the number-one reason people seek medical care for themselves. When it comes to our pets, we often don’t know when they are in pain. “We see the symptoms from the pain, and at that point, a disease could progress to where treatment will be more aggressive and more costly,” says Dr. Downing.

Treatments

Care for people and dogs with major illnesses is similar. The more advanced the illness, the more aggressive the treatment. For example, cancer treatments include medicines, surgeries, radiation, chemotherapy, and immunotherapy. A combination of therapies can be used. Eradicating the illness often depends on how advanced it has become.

Canine dementia

When Dr. Downing came out of veterinary school about 20 years ago, no one talked about Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome. Today, it’s found in about 50 percent of senior dogs. “It’s the canine equivalent of Alzheimer’s or dementia in humans,” she says.

On the one hand, our dogs are living longer healthier lives. It used to be dogs lived to 12 or 13. Now, some dogs are living to 16 and older.

“Now that our dogs are living longer, we see illnesses like this one,” says Dr. Downing. “It’s more like a form of dementia in humans than actual Alzheimer’s. It’s just like with us — a lot happens between ages 50 and 75 and 75 and older.”

With Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS), dogs become disoriented. They may experience separation anxiety at age 11 or older when they’ve never done that before. Also, their sleep patterns may be disrupted — like sleeping all day and being awake at night. Finally, they may become aggressive.

CDS is treated with medications and a special prescription diet.

“Water on the brain”

Another illness that affects both dogs and humans is hydrocephalus or “water on the brain.” The water is actually cerebrospinal fluid, a clear liquid that surrounds the brain and spinal cord. Treatment for dogs and humans consists of surgery where either the obstruction is removed or a shunt is inserted. If left untreated, the illness can be fatal.

When it comes to treating our dogs and humans, veterinarians and doctors are learning a lot from each other.

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Despite our best intentions, dogs get out when we’re sure they can’t. They run through open doors, dig under fences, hop out car windows, and squeeze through tiny little cat doors that you’d swear couldn’t accommodate a squirrel, much less your bouncy dog. In combination with an ID tag, a microchip is your safest bet for getting your lost dog returned to you safely. These tiny chips are embedded between your dog’s shoulder and, when scanned, can be used to identify your dog and reunite them with their parent. Here’s everything you need to know about microchips for dogs.

How microchips for dogs work

A microchip is about the size of a raw grain of rice and is made of biocompatible material. Using a large syringe, a veterinarian implants it into the skin beneath your dog’s shoulder blades. (Local shelters will often offer microchips for dogs as well, sometimes at a reduced cost.) This placement is permanent. The implantation procedure doesn’t hurt any more than any other injection, and there’s no need for local anesthetic.

Your vet will use a scanner to check that the microchip is working properly. The scanner uses a radio wave set at a certain frequency to turn the microchip on, then sends a signal to the implanted chip. In response, the chip’s number is sent to the scanner. Your contact information is matched to the microchip’s number and sent to a registry. Each microchip has a unique number.

Pros of microchips for dogs

• Shelters, animal control personnel, and veterinarians use them to try to identify stray dogs. The registry will show the parent’s contact information. These registries are usually open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
• Some companies provide a more comprehensive service, such as preauthorizing a financial limit in case your dog is found injured.
• Microchips will last 25 years.

Cons of microchips for dogs

Unfortunately, in the U.S., the system doesn’t quite work smoothly.

• There are two different types of microchips on the market. The first microchip that became popular has been in use here since the 1990s. The other (called ISO) has long been used in Europe and was introduced in the U.S. for companion animals in 2003, although it had already been used here for large animals for some time.
• Both types of chips use different radio frequencies, with the result that no scanner is compatible with all the microchips out there, even though some claim to be universal. If a shelter has a scanner that can’t read your dog’s microchip, the chip is useless in that situation. Some shelters and clinics have multiple scanners, but most can’t afford more than one (they cost several hundred dollars, and shelters are always short of funds). Although some manufacturers state that they have universal scanners, those haven’t worked out as well as hoped.
• There’s more than one registry. This is less helpful than having one big national database.

How to get the most out of a microchip

• Ask your local shelter what brand of microchip they use. Then, ask your veterinarian to use that brand.
• If you move, update the microchip registry with your new contact information. Otherwise, the microchip will be useless if your dog gets lost. (Dogs can easily panic and disappear during the frenzy of moving.) Also, make sure you update them if you get rid of your landline or change your number for whatever
• If you’ve moved to a new area and your new shelter uses a different scanner, call the microchip manufacturer and ask if they will donate one to your shelter.

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Flying with your dog can be a stressful situation. You’ll likely be bombarded with anxious thoughts during the flight. Is your fur baby cold? Are they being thrown about? Do they have to go to the bathroom? You probably won’t be able to relax until your pup comes out of the oversized luggage area. It doesn’t have to be this way. With some simple preparations, you can reduce the tension associated with flying for both you and your dog. Here’s how to keep your dog safe while flying.

Get comfortable with the crate

The key to keeping your dog safe while flying is to get an airline-approved crate, and be sure that Fido thinks of this crate as their den. You may need to spend time getting your dog comfortable with being in his crate for long periods of time. There will also be a lot of loud noises on the plane and strangers walking around in the cargo loading area.

Here is a suggested exercise to get Fido crate-trained for air travel. Feel free to ask a friend to help you out. First, put your dog inside the crate. Second, pick the crate up and walk a bit. Third, place the crate inside your car. Then, while your pup is still inside the crate, drive to a park or busy location. Again, carry the crate out of the car with your dog still inside. This way, Fido can get used to loud noises and a busy environment while being handled inside his crate.

Outfit the crate

There are certain items that you will want to place on the outside and inside of the crate to make it ready for travel. Place a few bright orange “live animal” stickers on the outside of the crate. Most airlines will do this as protocol, but it doesn’t hurt to have them on the crate before you arrive.

The next thing is to type up a one-page profile of your dog that includes your contact information with cell phone number. Include a letter that states something like: “Hi, I’m Tasha. I am a nice Labrador Retriever. I don’t bite. Please contact my parents if I am lost. I’ll probably need to eat and walk if there is a flight delay. I’ll be forever grateful if you can help me!” Tape this to the outside of the crate.

Make sure water and food dishes are attached to the inside of the crate. You may want to include a couple of soft toys that your dog loves and maybe a T-shirt that has your scent. Be sure to tape a small bag of food and a leash to the top of the crate.

Fly direct if possible

It’s easier to keep your dog safe while flying if the flight is short. Check the length of the flight and try to book a direct flight when at all possible. This will help you avoid plane changes or delays, not to mention lost luggage. It is important to match the length of the flight with that of your dog’s temperament and what they can handle. Whether your dog is being shipped as cargo or is riding in the cabin will help determine what they experience during the flight. Consider whether your dog can be in their crate for six hours or for whatever length of time will be necessary to arrive at your destination.

Compare airlines

Each airline has different requirements and policies for dog travel. Check with the airline’s policies regarding feeding times, arrival times, crate requirements, veterinary records, costs, and weight limits. There may be more requirements for different airlines.

Check with the airline to make sure that the pet storage area is climate-controlled and pressurized. If it is not, choose another airline. Also, when flying in certain weather, you will want to know if your dog will be exposed to the elements or sheltered before the flight.

Get health clearance

Get a clean bill of health certificate from your veterinarian for Fido to fly. Your dog cannot fly without veterinarian records stating that they are in good health. Most airlines require veterinarian health certificate records no more than 30 days old. Some airlines require the certificate date no more than 10 days from your departure date. This is important to take into account not only for your departure date but for your return date as well. Otherwise, you might have to get another checkup before the return flight.

Calculate feeding time

Your dog may or may not get nervous about the flight. It is a good rule of thumb to feed your dog anywhere from four to six hours before your flight time. (Not the time you’ll arrive at the airport, but the actual take-off time for your plane.) Give your dog minimal water to avoid full bladders.

Get some exercise

Every dog has a different level of energy. Some need to expend this energy before a long flight. Some airports have dog run areas. An airport that has an onsite dog area is a perfect place to play with your dog before placing them in their crate. This will also give them a good chance to relieve themself before the flight.

Stay calm

Even though you know your pup will likely be fine during the flight, the separation and inability to see what their environment is like can be unnerving. It is important to give plenty of reassuring hugs and kisses to your dog. When you’re calm and confident, then your pet will follow your lead and realize there is nothing to worry about.

If you are emotional about the trip, your pet may pick up on this and become concerned about the adventure. Try to keep the mood light. Once on board the aircraft, ask the flight attendant to confirm that your dog is loaded and secure. They may be able to give your dog a little extra water in the dish that you provided in his crate before take-off. This will reassure you that your dog is with you on the flight. (This is especially important if you have a connecting flight.)

Plan for reunification

Before taking the flight, ask the ticket person where you will be picking up your dog. Almost all airlines will have your dog come out of the oversized luggage area, while some may have you go to their cargo building separate from the baggage claim building. A short drive may be required.

Keeping your dog safe while flying is easier than you may think. Taking the extra time to become mentally and practically prepared for a trip involving out-of-the-ordinary logistics will make all the difference to you and your dog.

The post How to Keep Your Dog Safe While Flying appeared first on DogTime.

Every day is a good day to celebrate the puppies in our lives for being so adorable and loving. That said, it’s not all fun and excitement. You also need to take some precautions and start training early or those new boots you purchased will be torn to shreds by the aforementioned adorable new pup. Here are a few other annoying — but somehow endearing — things this furry new addition to your family may do, so be prepared!

1. They will follow you everywhere

The phrase “follow you like a puppy dog” exists for a reason.

You need to go to the bathroom and want some privacy? Good luck with that. Puppies are looking for a pack leader, and you know what, buddy? That’s you!

For the first couple of months, get used to your puppy shadowing you 24/7.

2. They find everything a little too exciting

Doorbells, people, loud sounds on the TV, or even a sneeze may send your pup into a barking fit.

If you have a full-length mirror that touches the floor, beware! That mirror has just become both your pup’s best friend and worst enemy.

3. They’ll treat everything as a chew toy

Your puppy’s preferred chew toy might just be the dirty underwear you left sitting on your bedroom floor.

You will be amazed at how much tidier you become a few weeks after getting a puppy. It can be frustrating, but come on — how adorable is your pup with that sock hanging out of their mouth and over their ear?

4. Puppies love mornings

Shifting groggily in your sleep at the crack of dawn is a clear signal to your puppy that it’s time to get up and greet the day. Their morning energy is unfathomable to even the greatest of coffee fiends.

You may not be a morning person, but seeing your pup wag their tail at light speed will make you smile and possibly forget that it’s 5:30 a.m.

5. They’ll turn your bed into a treasure chest

If you’re a pet parent who lets the puppy into your bed, chances are good that your pup has left a few found treasures in there for you.

What you need to know is that your bed will soon become your puppy’s storage locker. You may find things like chew toys, half-eaten treats, and maybe even a few slobbery pairs of your own socks buried way under and between the sheets and blankets.

Please do not move them. That is exactly where they belong!

6. They pee — a lot

Puppies are like babies without diapers. There will be moments when you feel the amount of pee coming out of your puppy defies logic.

Puppies will go outside, pee, and then come inside and pee again!

In the beginning, it’s a good idea to take your puppy outside every hour and let them sniff the grass, just to see if they feel inspired to go. It will save you from a lot of cursing as you scrub your carpets over and over. The fresh air is good for you, too.

7. They lick you — a lot

In theory, a cute puppy licking your face, shouldn’t be annoying.

Puppy kisses are the cutest things ever, but the non-stop licking and kissing can wear out even the most patient pet parent. You may notice that your puppy is licking the lotion off of your hands or legs right after you apply it. And the fact that you just put on makeup isn’t going to mean anything to your brand-new puppy.

Puppies love giving wet puppy kisses all day and all night.

There will be moments of frustration with your new pup. However, they will be balanced with moments of pure love, joy, and happiness. Every dog parent will tell you that it’s totally worth it.

The post 7 Adorably Annoying Things Puppies Do appeared first on DogTime.

Training your dog to come should be as easy as, “Rover, come on over!” And sometimes it is, at least with puppies. Brand-new pups will approach anything with a pulse. Other dogs, however, will need more training to learn the “come” command. We’ll show you how to help your dog learn this crucial command.

Training your dog to “come” with praise

Praising your pup when they do what you ask is common sense. During early training, it is important to praise your pup all the time they approach. However, do not think of puppy recall as an all-or-none response. Instead, reward your puppy’s first step towards you, and then continue to reward the pup all the time it approaches.

At some time in your puppy’s life, they will: 1) start towards you but run off when they sees a distraction, 2) run off when you reach for their collar and 3) not even bother to come at all.

Later on in training, you can reprimand the pup if they try to run off, but punishing the pup during early training will decrease the likelihood of coming when called. Also, it would be unfair to reprimand the pup for doing something wrong if you didn’t previously praise the pup for doing what is right. So, praise your puppy all the time it is headed in your direction.

If the pup does not come or if it reverses direction mid-recall, immediately get the pup’s attention by shouting their name, and then quickly run away from the pup. Immediately begin praising your pup as soon as they head towards you again.

Using treats to teach the “come” command

Why give your puppy a treat? Well, eventually, recall should be an all-or-nothing response. The food treat is a special reward for your pup once they obey. If you give your pup a treat immediately after taking hold of their collar, they will soon anticipate you grabbing their collar. And they will grow to love it!

The wrong way to train

It’s crucial to train your pup before they reach adolescence and start training you! A growing puppy may rebel during training. At first, the pup may duck their head as you reach for their collar. Then, they may approach you but stay an arm’s length away. Next, they’ll play “catch me if you can.” Eventually, your pup won’t come at all. Why? Because you inadvertently trained the pup not to come when called. How? By punishing the dog when it comes.

Never call your dog to punish it! For example, if your dog soiled the house in your absence, it’s too late for punishment now. Your dog will not associate the delayed punishment with the crime, but they will definitely associate the punishment with approaching you! Just put your dog outside while you clean up the mess. And in the future, until you have housetrained your dog, don’t let them have the run of the house when you are not at home. If you do call your dog and punish them, not only will you still have to housetrain your dog, but also you will have to repair your dog’s damaged confidence and retrain them to come when called.

Do not use “come here” as a control command until you have practiced and perfected reliable, integrated recalls. Until then, use “sit” or “down,” which are much simpler commands. Then, say “come here” once you know you have the dog’s attention (because they are sitting). A reliable recall is one of the most difficult commands to maintain, whereas “sit” and “down” are the two easiest.

Never call your dog to confine them. Instead use a place-command, such as: “Go to your crate,” “Go to your mat,” or “Outside.”

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Believe it or not, our canine companions get stressed. The circumstances and degrees of this can vary from dog to dog since no two are exactly alike, but it’s still something all dog parents must be wary of. Like humans, dogs can show their stress in different ways. To be a responsible dog parent, you must understand your dog’s signs of distress to ensure that both you and your canine companion can maintain a happy and healthy relationship together.

For the record, each of these recommendations for solutions should never replace the advice of your veterinarian. If one or more of these issues appear in your pet’s life and show no signs of stopping, please take your canine to see a vet as soon as possible.

1. Digestion issues

To be fair, the underlying cause of digestion problems can be hard to pinpoint. Because dogs don’t usually eat like humans do, digestive issues could signify almost anything.

However, if symptoms such as constipation, diarrhea, or other digestion issues last longer than two to three days, consider if there are external stressors that are factoring into their overall health.

Most of all, be sure to visit your vet. They can determine the cause of your dog’s tummy troubles and help you identify stressors that could be causing them.

2. Sudden aggression

Aggression is a major issue no matter what, but if it seems to be directed toward a particular person or animal, it may be best to remove the cause until a better solution can be reached.

Naturally, this is a heartbreaking side effect for any pet parent to see their animals exhibit, but the importance of aggression in an animal who hasn’t otherwise shown it before cannot be overlooked.

Dogs can act aggressively when they’re stressed, in pain, or facing some medical condition. See your veterinarian to find the cause. You may also need to consider finding a professional trainer if the aggression continues.

3. Body language

You might hear some people say that dogs are unpredictable because they can’t communicate with their human family. This isn’t totally true. Dogs have their own forms of communicating that experienced and observant dog parents can identify.

Ears, eyes, and position of the tail are key factors for interpreting your dog’s state of mind and are just as important for determining whether or not your dog is stressed.

However, other signs that you might not notice include things such as itching and scratching, excessive drooling, shaking, shedding, yawning, and licking.

Again, none of these signs — either separate or together — are a sure way to tell if your dog feels stressed.

However, if you see your pet exhibiting new behavior and doing these things regularly, it might be time to take them to a vet to rule out any alternative health issues such as allergies, skin conditions, and more.

4. Accidents

Going potty in the house when your dog is already housetrained can be another major sign of a stressed animal. Once or twice may not be a big deal, but if it becomes a habit, it might be time to investigate further.

Check to see if there’s a reason your dog may not want to go outside. Is there a new dog in the area? Or a wild animal? Perhaps a major life change has thrown your pup out of sync.

It may also be important to consider your dog’s age in this one. If they are older, stress may not be a factor so much as them not being able to move fast enough to get outside, or they may be suffering from incontinence. Again, this is a harder symptom to pinpoint.

Remember to always be patient with your dog. They’re telling you something is wrong the best way they know how.

5. Sleep (or lack thereof)

If your dog is sleeping less or more than normal, something may be up. Like humans, dogs can suffer disruptions in their sleep schedule when they feel stressed.

Sleeplessness or excessive lethargy might also be a sign of something more severe, so if these issues persist, be sure to take your pup to a vet as soon as possible.

Remember, these signs are not guaranteed indicators of stress. No one knows your dog better than you, but if one or more of these things are recurring in your dog, please take them to your veterinarian as soon as possible.

The sooner you do, the sooner your dog will be happy, and you will be, too.

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We all want our dogs to be as healthy and long-lived as possible, so it makes perfect sense to feed them well. But can the same ol’, same ol’ food that we plop into the bowl every day fulfill 100 percent of our dogs’ dietary needs?

The short answer: it probably can, and probably does. Although there’s a lot of controversy about dog food, most vets and canine nutritionists agree that the major dog foods on the market do a very good job of meeting the average dog’s needs, and supplements aren’t necessary. So if your dog food is formulated for your dog’s age and weight, and your dog is healthy, chances are you don’t need to worry about supplements

When to consider supplements for your dog

There are some situations when dietary supplements might be worth a look. Are you seeing any of these warning signs?

• A dull and brittle coat
• Dry, flaky skin
• Radical and swift change in weight (up or down)
• Low energy level

If so, try changing dog foods first. If that doesn’t seem to help, visit your veterinarian to rule out any medical problems. And while you’re there, ask your vet if supplements might help. Make sure that your vet agrees with any plans you might have before you open your first bottle.

Why supplementation may (or may not) be necessary

The three most common arguments used to justify supplements are allergies, malabsorption, and cooked food. But consider these facts:

Allergies do seem to be on the rise in dogs, some experts say, but supplements would have little effect on the underlying condition. If you suspect allergies, get it verified by your vet.

Malabsorption is a rare condition that hinders a dog’s ability to absorb nutrients from food. Your veterinarian can test for malabsorption and prescribe special medications to treat it, but this isn’t something you should try to diagnose or fix yourself.

Cooked food doesn’t equal bad food. Many supplement manufacturers contend that the cooked food we give our dogs has lost some of its nutritive value or digestibility. Not so much. The predominant carbohydrate source in corn, barley, rice, and oats — the grains used in most dog foods — is starch, and when starches are cooked, they actually become more digestible, not less. Dogs can utilize nearly 100 percent of cooked starches, but just 60 percent of uncooked starches.

Making your own dog food

Some folks opt to make their own dog food instead of giving dietary supplements. If you decide to go that route, be sure to share your diet plan with your veterinarian or a canine nutritionist to make sure it meets all those minimum daily requirements.

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Melatonin is a sedative hormonal supplement used to treat many kinds of anxiety, hyperactivity, restlessness, and other conditions in dogs.

It’s a naturally occurring hormone produced by the pineal gland. Many pet parents prefer to use supplements for their dogs instead of drugs that may contain more chemicals and have harmful side effects.

You can purchase melatonin on Amazon or over the counter, though the FDA has not approved it for use in dogs. You should not give it to your dog without first consulting your veterinarian, as it may react poorly with certain medications, worsen some medical conditions, and pose risks for pregnant dogs or puppies.

It hasn’t been thoroughly studied for side effects in canines, though it’s generally considered to be safe for dogs with a vet’s recommendation. Most pet parents only report rare and minimal side effects.

Here’s what you should know about the uses, dosage, and side effects of melatonin in dogs.

Uses of melatonin for dogs

Melatonin for dogs generally works as a sedative by supplementing the naturally occurring neurohormone produced by the pineal glands. It’s often used to calm dogs who suffer from different types of anxiety, such as separation anxiety or noise anxiety caused by fireworks, thunderstorms, etc.

Melatonin may possibly reduce phobias or panic. Some dogs have been entirely cured of their fear of loud noises with the use of this supplement. However, it may not cure every dog in every situation.

Supplements can also be used to treat dogs who are hyperactive or those who have epilepsy, and there is some evidence that it may treat certain types of alopecia.

Some pet parents give melatonin to dogs to help them sleep at night, especially older dogs who might have disrupted sleep patterns. Canine Cognitive Dysfunction is a condition in dogs that’s similar to Alzheimer’s in humans, and it makes it difficult to sleep.

Melatonin helps reduce restlessness and aids sleep, and its effects usually last for about eight hours.

If your dog suffers from any of these conditions, you must seek your vet’s guidance before trying melatonin.

Dosage of melatonin for dogs

The proper dosage of melatonin for your dog must be determined with the help of a vet. Individual dogs may have different needs based on the conditions being treated.

Some vets recommend introducing melatonin gradually, then increasing the dosage as needed. Always consult your vet before giving your dog supplements or medication.

The usual dosage of melatonin for dogs depends on size. Dogs less than 10 pounds should generally take 1 mg. Dogs 10 to 25 pounds usually take 1.5 mg. For dogs 26 to 100 pounds, 3 mg is recommended. Dogs over 100 pounds may take 3 to 6 mg.

You should not administer these dosages more than three times per day.

Melatonin comes in tablet, capsule, powder, and liquid forms that can be given with or without food. It usually starts working within 10 to 15 minutes after a dog takes it.

Effects last for about eight hours if dogs take the correct dosage. For this reason, pet parents often give it to their dogs immediately before bed to provide a full night of sleep.

You can also purchase chewable melatonin supplements made specifically for dogs, but you must still talk to your vet before giving them to your pet.

Side effects of melatonin in dogs

There are few reported side effects of melatonin in dogs so long as it’s administered correctly and at the proper dosage. In fact, the lack of side effects often makes it a more preferable choice than tranquilizers or other drugs.

Still, there are a few side effects that you should watch out for. Report these to your vet. They may wish to recommend a lower dose or advise a different course of treatment.

Here are a few side effects that some dogs experience:

• Upset stomach and cramps
• Tachycardia (elevated heart rate)
• Itching
• Confusion
• Fertility changes

You should always read the labels on melatonin products. Some contain other ingredients like xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is toxic to dogs.

Some medications may interact poorly with melatonin, and some medical conditions may worsen with use of melatonin. You should always discuss these things with your vet before giving your dog supplements or medication.

Additionally, pregnant dogs or puppies should generally not take melatonin.

The post Melatonin For Dogs: Uses, Dosage, and Side Effects appeared first on DogTime.

There are many reasons to go for a hike. Hiking is a great way to enjoy the outdoors and breathe in the fresh air. It also promotes exercise and overall good health. Hiking doesn’t just have numerous benefits for you, but also for your beloved pooch. Most dogs love the outdoors, and on a hike, they’re able to stretch their legs while exploring the world around them. But before you take your dog out on the trail, there are a few things you need to consider — and some gear you need to stock up on. Here’s everything you need for a hike with your dog.

Before you hit the trail

Firstly, you need to make sure your dog is capable of going on long treks in the wilderness. That means speaking with your dog’s vet and taking into account their age and breed.

Make sure all your dog’s vaccinations are up to date. If you’re in a region where disease-carrying insects and wildlife run amok, ask your vet if there are special immunizations in case your dog gets bitten.

It’s also important to make sure you make sure you have all the gear and supplies a dog might need during the hike. Here are the items we recommend.

1. A strong harness

As obedient as your pup might be, it’s a good idea to use a harness instead of relying only on a collar when it comes to hiking.

Dogs are naturally curious animals, and anything can excite them at a moment’s notice. This means you might have to pull them back if they try to chase after something in the wild.

Make sure the harness is loose enough for you to slip two fingers underneath but not loose enough that they can slip out of it. It’s also a good idea to make sure the harness has colorful material and reflective fabrics in case it gets dark while you’re hiking.

Using a collar alone might not be a good idea, as it might choke your dog, especially if it gets caught on a branch or they go bolting after something in the bushes.

2. A good leash

Make sure your leash is no longer than 6 feet. Leashes longer than 6 feet might get entangled in a bush or a low branch. It’s good to have manageable control with your leash in case you need to reign your pup back and keep them away from dangers like a narrow trail or other wild creatures. A colorful or reflective leash will also help during a hike, especially if it gets dark.

3. Dog tags and microchip

Making sure your dog has the proper identification is always important, so always check that your dog’s regular tags are attached to their collar and that the information on them is current. If you’ve changed phone numbers recently, update their tags before you hike.

Another form of identification is a microchip, a small device placed beneath a dog’s skin. Recommended by most veterinarians, a microchip ensures anyone who finds your dog can scan the chip and read your contact information.

A microchip is a permanent form of ID that will make it much easier to reunite with your dog. It can’t fall off if your dog loses their collar, unlike their regular tags.

Having both of these forms of identification is helpful in case your dog gets lost on the trail.

4. Food and water

Making sure your dog is hydrated and has enough energy to make the hike is very important. When it comes to bringing food, make sure you bring at least half of the portion you normally feed them.

It’s also recommended to bring food or treats that are high in protein and fats to keep your pup’s energy high.

As for water, make sure you consider the difficulty of the hike and the temperature outside. Your pup will want to drink more water than usual, as they will be expending more energy on a hike.

Timing your dog’s water breaks every 15 to 30 minutes will make sure your dog stays hydrated throughout the hike.

Don’t forget to bring a collapsible bowl, as this will help with giving your dog their food and water. These durable and lightweight bowls usually come with a loop that you can attach to your pup’s leash or the side of your hiking bag.

5. A first-aid kit

Not only might you need first aid for yourself, but your dog might need it if they get injured during your hike. You can buy a first-aid kit ready-made or you can DIY it.

Some items you might consider putting in a first-aid kit are tweezers for tick removal, antiseptic for wounds, liquid bandages for hurt paws, and gauze for extra padding and protection around covered wounds.

Also, pack some waste bags for when your dog has to do their business. This will help keep the trail clean, as your dog’s waste is not considered part of the wild environment.

6. Weather protection

It is always important to check the weather before heading out on a hike. But sometimes, no matter how prepared you are, the weather can still be unpredictable.

For your dog, make sure you bring a few pieces of clothing that will protect them from the weather conditions. A raincoat is helpful if it starts to rain and booties are great if the trail gets abrasive or muddy.

Keeping a reflective vest or jacket will also help if it gets dark fast when you’re hiking.

Pet stores now sell backpacks for dogs for times like these. But make sure your dog is strong enough to carry it if you use one. And don’t overpack it to the point where it’s too heavy for them.

If you happen to be hiking where it’s extra sunny, consider a dog sunscreen as recommended by your veterinarian. Do not use human sunscreen on dogs.

The post Everything You Need for a Hike With Your Dog appeared first on DogTime.